Site Menu - Click any other page you'd like to view
HOME
PAGE 
DIARY
HOTEL LIST VANCOUVER &
VICTORIA INLAND PASSAGE
MOUNTAINS
QUÉBEC PERCÉ CABOT TRAIL
THE MARITIMES MAINE
FRISCO BUILDINGS
WILD ANIMALS DOGS LOBSTERS VEHICLES HISTORY FLORA OUR
HOME
PAGE 3 OF HOLIDAY
DIARY
PAGE INDEX OF TOUR IN CHRONOLOGICAL ORDER
TUESDAY 15TH
JUNE
In our last message we mentioned that although we didn't know it, we were heading for a fall.
The "fall" we refer to is Brian's spectacular bathroom tumble here in Hotel
la Normandie in Percé. Brian was climbing out of the bath when he slipped. During the
moments which followed he stumbled, hit, smashed and slid backwards and forwards around
the small bathroom making a hideous din as he slammed into one piece of bathroom hardware
after another. The more he struggled to gain his balance the more he slipped, banged,
bounced and spun. Finally he hit the floor, skidding along it until he slammed into the
door bringing the curtain down on his spectacular act.
Lynn rushed into the bathroom in panic to find a dazed, battered and naked husband laying flat on his back on the tiles and in a state of severe shock.
In the following minutes we checked out bones and joints and found everything intact. The biggest blessing was that although Brian had bounced
multiple times against the bath, taps, toilet, vanity unit and door, not one of these
items had struck his head. It was a very lucky escape from an extremely nasty fall. Now we
know why they say the bathroom is the most dangerous room in the house.
We set off from Percé in light fog, the first we have encountered in Canada
thanks to our continuing good luck (bath tumbles excepted). Canada has a lot of fog and now we are into the Atlantic Maritime Provinces we are warned to
expect some humdingers.
As we follow the northern coast of the gulf westwards through maritime
Québec, the fog suddenly lifts and the sun comes out again. It's pleasant
green rolling countryside with views over the gulf. Nothing spectacular but
peaceful and enjoyable just the same. We're heading to the west along the gulf so that we
can pick up a ferry to take us across the gulf and into the Province of New Brunswick.
When we got to the ferry turnoff however we are greeted with an unwelcome sign.....
"Passer Ferme"..... the damned thing's closed. It means we will have to drive
clear around the neck of the Gulf thus jacking today's journey up to about 450 kms, more
than we'd bargained for.
We finally reached New Brunswick and drove back east towards Bathurst, our overnight destination. Found the Rosewood Inn without much trouble. It turns out to be a
comfortable B&B with an hospitable hostess.
You can visit the Rosewood Inn at:-
www.rosewoodinn.ca
WEDNESDAY 16TH JUNE
Saw a few people stopped beside the Freeway apparently harvesting something from amongst
the weeds. Well, you know Brian. He had to stop and check it out. We found tiny little
wild strawberries growing at the base of the grass and weeds. They were about the size of
a small pea and very sweet to the taste. We had fun plucking them out of the grass and
eating them as we grazed the edge of the Freeway for 15 minutes or so before moving on. It's
the first time we've ever seen or tasted these cute little wild strawberries.
We have been in the land of the Acadians for the last few days. "What are
Acadians?", you might ask. Well, Acadians are the French speaking peoples who came to Canada from Normandy, commencing around the year 1608. These French speaking
settlers apparently suffered a lot of injustices from the British when the French forces
were defeated in some significant battles later in history. And although many Acadians
were deported by the British, many remained. Today about 30% of Canadians speak French as their first language
and they are not just confined to Québec Province. About 35% of New Brunswick is French speaking and there are also a number of French speaking
towns in Nova Scotia which speak French as the primary language. We had formerly been
under the impression that all the French speaking communities were in the Province of
Québec but that's not the case.
With that introduction we'll move on to mention that after leaving Bathurst
we went on to visit the Acadian Village Historique. This is a reconstructed
Acadian village on about 10 acres of pasture and woodland. We weren't
expecting much but it was really good. We spent about two hours there
talking to the women we found in each of the buildings within the village.
The women were dressed in the costume of the time and spoke reasonable English with the loveliest musical French accent. And did you know that
urine is the only substance which satisfactorily sets indigo dye when colouring cloth? Not any urine mind you, it has to be the urine of a male
teenager. Apparently they have much more ammonia in their urine and that's what does the trick. We thought you'd want to know that!
We popped into an Acadian cafe somewhat later and enjoyed a wonderful dish of steamed black mussels with garlic, wine and shallot butter. Brian said they
were the sweetest and most tender mussels he has ever eaten. He loves the small tender variety we used to get in Sydney before the much larger but tougher New
Zealand green lip variety captured most of the Australian market.
Since arriving in Le Provinces Française we have regularly seen a dish called Poutine on most menus. Small Poutine, Medium Poutine, Large Poutine or
"All You Can Eat Poutine". What the hell is Poutine? We were tempted to order
one just to find out. We finally asked someone and got the answer. Poutine consists of a
huge plate of hot potato chips which are smothered with tomato ketchup, covered with cheese, then slipped under the grill for toasting.
Sometimes a few spoonfuls of chilli beef mince is also placed on top of the chips. Perhaps you'd like to try it and tell us about it. We'll pass for
now as it doesn't exactly sound like haute cuisine!
As we head south the land and climate is softening. It's more balmy and
there are myriads of tiny wild flowers. We are particularly taken with the
thick carpets of tiny yellow buttercups which can be seen in huge drifts
out in the fields and through most home lawns. Talking of flowers, we've
forgotten to ever mention that purple, pink and white lupins grow in wild
abundance along the highways in Canada.... both east and west. There
are lupins everywhere and it a very attractive additive to the roadside scenery
here in Canada.
Finally we arrived at the Confederation Bridge, a 13 km long bridge from the mainland to Prince Edward Island (P.E.I.). This is Canada's smallest Province being about
150 kms by 40 kms in size and having a population of only 132,000 people. The bridge is an awesome site to behold.
P.E.I. is as neat as a pin. The big industries are tourism, potatoes and the
"Anne of Green Gables" industry which threatens to become the biggest
industry of all. The interior of the Province reminds us very much of Norfolk Island with
it's green and grassy appearance, white cottages and pine trees. However P.E.I. doesn't
have the spectacular rugged coastline of Norfolk Island or any kind of wave on the fairly
insipid looking beaches.
All in all P.E.I. is a pretty nice, cute and restful place to visit and we're pleased to
be staying three nights in Country Florals B&B here just outside the Capital of
Charlottetown.
Sandi and Ernie our hosts are garden fanatics and have beautiful prize winning gardens
around their lovely home. You can stroll through their gardens and visit our charming
suite here at Country Florals by clicking on the next link.
http://www3.pei.sympatico.ca/bdmacwill/
THURSDAY 17TH JUNE
A slow start and leisurely morning around the house resulted in a late
start. We just explored some of the northern coast. Lynn was keen to visit
Green Gables, so we did. We also visited the lobster fisherman's harbour at North Rustico and admired the fishing boats, most of which were around 45'
to 55' in length. All were impeccably maintained with perfectly executed paintwork, colourful trim and exotic signwriting on bows and sterns. We've
never seen fishing boats so beautifully maintained but this is typical of the culture here in P.E.I. where it seems nothing ugly is allowed.
We had been recommended to Fisherman's' Wharf, a gigantic lobster restaurant designated
one of P.E.I.'s natural wonders. Well first you are greeted at the front entrance where
you order the size of lobster you want to eat. The one pound lobster supper costs C$22.95.
"Folks, for this price you get our `All You Can Eat Steamed Mussels', our
famous Seafood Chowder, we'll bring the lobster you ordered and you get to help yourself from our 60 foot salad bar. After that it's whatever you wish
from our four story Dessert Bar. We also include your tea or coffee. Now
your waitress Sarah will show you to a table."
This place was REALLY organised to handle hundreds of diners quickly and efficiently. The dining room was an acre in size and beneath the dining room
is an acre of storage tanks containing thousands of live lobsters. The owner apparently works his guts out during "the season" then goes to Florida for
the next eight months of each year.
We enjoyed it. Lynn said it was the sweetest and tastiest lobster she'd
eaten since our first date when we went to "The French Restaurant" in
Taylor's Square in Sydney back in 1966. Come to think of it, the French
Restaurant was a rather pricey joint. Brian must have been pretty serious
about that first date given his modest wages back in those days.
FRIDAY 18TH JUNE
Another late start today. We seem to be slowing down at last. When we finish this newsletter instalment, we'll head off towards the eastern end of the
Island where there are lots of little coves and fishing villages.
We're beginning to need another fix of Asian food so we'll look around during our travels
today and hope to find an authentic Chinese restaurant to visit later tonight. Gee it will
be good to have some home cooking when we get back home again, though. Actually, when we
come to think of it, at least 30% of the Tonkin's home cooking is Asian style, being based
on either Chinese, Thai or Indian cuisine. No wonder we keep getting the urge for some
Asian food.
Tomorrow we move on again and will head south down into the Province of Nova Scotia. The
combined distance on the Cadillac and Buick odometers now adds up to 6,300 kms so far.
The diary continues >>> Click here for the last page